Airport fun

I'm in the Bangkok airport and I'm exhausted! My flight left Delhi at 12:30 am this morning and I wasn't able to sleep. I'm here on a layover between my flight to Phuket. On the plane a woman curled up to sleep and put her foot on me. Augh!! Those of you who know my foot-phobia (caused by working at a shoe store for 2 years)will understand just how horrifying this was for me.

My last day in India was really nice. The family was so sweet to me and gave me many hugs and gifts. They gave me a woven bracelet they'd gotten recently at a shrine in the Himalayas. I'm supposed to wear it until it falls off. Luckily, I really like it. Its red, my favorite color. I also have anklets on that jingle when I walk. I probably annoy everyone around me, but I think its fun!

We (the family and I) were joking that we should have many goodbye parties for me. So we had a "samosas and sweets party" at 10am yesterday -- which is exactly what it sounds like: we ate samosas and sweets. I like this kind of party. Then at 1pm we had our "beer party" where my host father, uncle and I got a bit tipsy on Kingfisher "Strong" beer and everyone else drank Fanta. No one else is allowed to drink alcohol. Of course, then I took a nap. At 7:30 I left for the airport. Sonu (one of the brothers there) has a friend who has a van taxi, so we took that. Amit and Sonu came along to see me off and decided that we would have beer in the taxi. Yes, its legal. So we have lots of fun pictures of our second "beer party" inside the taxi, which included lots of spilling.

My flight went well other than the foot thing (eek! don't want to think about it). I took Indian Airlines, which seems to not care as much as other airlines about passengers who freak out about turbulence. Also, they told us to put our seatbelts on, oh, 20 seconds before we landed on the ground in Bangkok. It was pretty funny. They also served the worlds unhealthiest meal: an egg roll (which was actually wrapped in egg -- like an omelet. a real egg roll?), a fried Indian patty thing, and a weird quiche-like cake. And ketchup. Whats the ketchup for?

Well, my internet time is running out so I'm going to wrap up and go to my gate. I'll write more in the next day or so! Thailand is nice so far..but I'll write more about that in my next post.

For some reason, its not letting me write a title for this...unless it changes its mind this might be my untitled post.

I'm leaving for Thailand tonight! My last few days in India have been interesting. My last day at CSI on Friday was cut short due to heat exhaustion. I felt so miserable! I spent the whole afternoon in bed. Pooja and Amit kept coming in to try to get me to drink this very salty lemon drink. Everyone was really sweet. The next day it was still hot and I felt pretty weak until about 1pm when the sky clouded over and the rain started. Yaay! I suddenly felt alive again. We went on the roof and played in the rain. It was great.

Now I'm heading downstairs to have our "party": samosas, sweets and drinks. Beer for me and the adult males, and Fanta for everyone else. Next time I'll post from Thailand!

Happy Birthday, Mama!

Happy Birthday! To anyone who will see Mom this week, please give her a big hug for me.

Also, here is a picture of me in my new "suit". I'm standing with my host mother here in India. I'm 25 now...isn't there that poem about wearing purple once you're old?

Speaking of "freak"

Today I found some books that a previous volunteer left here. One of them is called "The Third Gender" and is a study on transsexuals in India. Here they are called 'eunuchs'. When I first saw it, I was pretty impressed. India is extremely conservative. I'm pretty sure homosexuality is outright illegal. So a book about gender issues, especially transsexuality, struck me as incredibly progressive. Almost Berkeley-like, even! But then I saw the first page:

WOW. Its so politically incorrect I just don't know what to say!! So it might be a step in the right direction that social scientists in India are starting to sympathize with the condition of eunuchs. But...wow. "Prevention of the birth of such unfortunate freaks of nature"??! To the eunuchs and how we can stop them from being born?! Progressive is not the word that comes to mind. And the book's forward was pretty much the most self-aggrandizing, pompous garbage an author has ever written. Seriously, he said he was pleased that he would always be the first and foremost thinker about eunuchs. Um...I'm 3/4 through the book and not impressed with his methodology nor his conclusions. But then again, he is a man and India has made me into something of a man-hater. You probably would, too, if you had them staring and snickering at you all day long!

That's all I've got...except this fact: India has over 1,500 different varieties of mangoes. And its mango season. Yaay! Below is the mango man delivering to our house today:

Circus Freak

One common theme in all the places I've visited so far is that I feel like an absolute freak. In Ghana, they stare and talk because I'm white. In Egypt, they stare and harass because I'm white and female and wearing Western clothing. On the streets here in India, its pretty much on par with Egypt. I'm getting weary of feeling like a circus freak. Yesterday evening, a tailor came by to measure me for a dress and everyone was laughing at my measurements. It was pretty obvious that's why they were laughing, but I asked my host sister, Pooja, what they were saying and she said "its just funny...your body is very different from ours. Thicker." Ouch. Not exactly something a sensitive Western woman wants to hear about her body. I am also at least 5 inches taller (and often more) than any woman I've met here. It will be nice to get back to San Francisco, where I couldn't be freakish even if I tried. **sigh**

Also, my eyebrows have been butchered by an Indian woman with a piece of thread. Well, not butchered. They're just thinner than I've ever, ever had them before. I feel like my face is naked =S I guess I should just embrace the freakishness...

Child Survival India

Child Survival India is the name of the NGO I'm volunteering with while I'm here. And yes, they abbreviate it as "CSI". No one here has heard of the television show, so I'm the only one who thinks thats funny.

Things are going pretty well. I've been doing research and trying to write a grant proposal for one of their programs promoting legal literacy for women and children in the relocated slum communities outside Delhi. About 8 years ago, in order to accomodate Delhi's urban growth, the government relocated the slum communities within the city proper to "temporary" housing in rural areas outside the city. The housing looks like it was never really finished; there's rebar sticking out everywhere and a lot of places don't have roofs or full walls. The government still plans to move them to "real" housing eventually. Anyway, CSI has a lot of programs in these communities, including the one I'm writing about. But in writing this I'm also having to write/research a lot about the nonprofit as a whole. I spent some time in Narela, one of the communities not too far from where I'm staying. I got to experience the Indian bus system, which is hot, overcrowded and full of shady people! Posted on every other seat was an airbrushed message: "Look under your seat. If there is bomb, sound alarm. Earn reward." EEk! I decided I would try to travel by rickshaw or foot whenever possible. My day in Narela was interesting. I walked around with the coordinator for a while, I sat in one some legal consultations, I met the ob-gyn who volunteers there...but I mostly hung out with the young women. They insisted on doing my makeup and hair (the picture to the left is post-makeover). I definitely felt kind of overwhelmed by all the poking and scrutiny...I felt like I was a toy or something. Actually, they did say they thought my skin looked like a doll. That made me sad, because I think that means all the dolls kids have here are probably white. Anyway, I managed to conceal my irritation and made a lot of friends. Most of the time, though, I'm at the main office on the computer. I think that's okay with me...if I went to Narela every day I think I'd get reeeally overwhelmed, even just by the commute alone. The main office also has a lot of people to interact with, staff and clients, because that's where a full medical clinic and a few other programs are located. I also feel like I'm more useful at this writing project. In the actual community, few people speak English at all, let alone enough to counsel them in it. It seems like non-Hindi-speaking volunteers are really just there to amuse everyone, not to do a lot of actual work. The power cut out today for 5-6 hours, so I didn't get much work done. But I'm going in to the office tomorrow because India has a 6-day workweek!

I posted some more photos. I'm so on top of keeping my Flickr updated these days! Hope you enjoy. Have a great weekend, everyone!

Indian Farm Life

I'm just going to come out and say it: I milked a buffalo yesterday. Yes, a buffalo. And all I could think was "so this is where delicious mozzerella comes from..."

I'm living with a host family on a small farm in a village about 45 minutes away from Delhi. The family is wonderful. Its a large extended family with several generations, and I haven't been able to keep straight how each person is related to the other. There are two small children, one is 6, the other 4 (I think). Indian kids seem really small for their age...the 6 year old is about Ryan or Collin's size! They've warmed up to me and follow me around a lot. We point at different things (a peacock, cow, buffalo, airplane, etc) and they'll say it in Hindi and I'll say it in English and then we try to pronounce it in the other's language and end up giggling a lot. They're adorable. There are 3 teenagers, a girl and two boys. I get along with all of them really well. After work today I'm going into the village with them to look at shops and maybe get my eyebrows threaded. The next generation is a bit older than I am, then the parents, and then their parents. Its a little confusing. Only a handful of them speak any English, but we manage to communicate and I think they like me anyway. I'm trying to learn a little simple Hindi, but of course there's only so much I can learn in 3 weeks!

They are Hindu and vegetarian, and they make amazing food. They were surprised and pleased to hear that I was also a vegetarian. They try to feed me a lot, and laugh at me when I say I can't eat any more. They also had me try a plain, raw green chilli and everyone watched my face to see my reaction. Luckily, I held my own even though it was pretty hot. They told me they belong to the "Jatt" farmer/service worker caste. They said that although they are not rich, they still live well, honestly and simply. I think their house is absolutely beautiful. Its 3 (albeit narrow) stories tall, with lots of open veranda-like spaces. The rooms have lots of windows and ceiling fans. It makes the summer heat bearable. The heat isn't quite as bad here, away from smoggy Delhi.

Also, I'm drinking a LOT of chai (tea). Its the social drink here, so I have it at home, at work...everywhere. Its a good thing I like chai! And I realized that drinking hot tea on a warm summer day isn't as bad as it sounds.

Work is going really well. The organization I'm volunteering with is called Child Survival India. They have a variety of programs including HIV/AIDS prevention and care, general medical care, legal resources, domestic violence/abuse support. They focus on rural slum populations.

Yesterday evening I sat with the whole family on the 3rd floor, most of which is the roof deck (still marble). It looked like a storm was coming. Its not technically the monsoon season yet, but I think it might rain today anyway. It was really exciting. The winds picked up and there was lightning and dramatic clouds. It didn't rain more than a few drops, though. We stayed outside until after 11pm, chatting, watching and waiting for the storm. They think I should come back to visit and stay longer. They said if I can't come back for a year or so, then I can bring a husband with me (ha!).

So, basically, I really like it here. I adore my host family and I enjoy and respect the organization I'm working with very much. I was worried that India would be too overwhelming for me. I think Delhi could drive a person crazy, but out here in the village its lovely.

Birthday & Taj Mahal

Hi everyone! I had a lovely birthday, despite the fact that I missed all of you terribly. I hope everyone in SF is having a fun Pride weekend and being safe!!

6 of us volunteers hired a car for a day trip to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort. Its about a 4 hour drive from Delhi. At one point we had to stop to pay a "road tax" so the driver had to leave us for about 10 minutes. Immediately, a group of obnoxious men descending on our car, tapping on the windows, etc. I do NOT like this aspect of India one bit. One guy even tried to open the drivers side door. I was in the front passenger seat and I gave him a LOOK OF DEATH and shook my head slowly. He tried to pantomime some joke about driving and I continued the evil stare, looking very not-amused, and it worked. They left and didn't come back. I was soooooo pissed off. After that we only got attention from people trying to sell us stuff. One tiny old man came up and sat down with a basket and began playing a shrill, awful flute-like instrument. Lo! and behold, a real snake came out, swaying left and right, towards the sound. I saw a real snake charmer!! I didnt even know those existed!! We also saw lots of monkeys on leashes. Weird. Our driver did come back and we continued our journey. There are so many animals along the side of the road here. There are monkeys, boars, sheep, dogs and, of course, cows. I think the cows here look more statuesque. They seem taller and more angular -- but that might be because they're really thin. They graze on the trash heaps at the side of the road. For being so revered they aren't taken care of very well. For some reason, though, the idea of these cows being sacred makes perfect sense to me. For the record, the other volunteers think I'm crazy -- so this is not the majority opinion. I don't know...cows are cool. And these ones are especially striking-looking.

The Taj Mahal was beautiful and enormous. We went inside, but my favorite moment was afterwards when we sat on the grass in the shade in front of it. There are so many people that it can be very hectic. Also, people want to take pictures of us. I don't mind women and children taking pictures and I'll even pose with them. But the men/boys who ask I say no. From far away they do anyway. Its really uncomfortable, but unfortunately there isn't really anything I can do about it.

The Red Fort was really, really interesting. Its this labryinth of passageways and balconies, and a small marble mosque hidden inside. I could get lost in it. Its huuuge. I don't even think we saw everything, and we wandered for a really long time.

Today we went to see a film. It was fabulous. Lots of dancing and a random Willie Nelson lookalike Pied Piper character, played by a superfamous Bollywood star. I've included a link to the trailer on youtube below, you guys should watch it. Its pretty funny.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRA7dDf20vs

Thanks to everyone for the wonderful birthday emails! I miss everyone a lot. Love you all.

Delhi

Hi everyone! I just uploaded a lot of pictures to my Flickr account. Some have been commented on and rotated, the rest I can't get to today but hopefully soon! I have more photos but have reached my June upload limit! July is just around the corner, though.

I have to get going!! Thanks to everyone for the birthday emails! I'll write again this weekend to let you know how the Taj Mahal birthday-day went. xoxo

India

This morning Dominic and I woke up at an ungodly hour (8:00 am) and went to the airport. I had such a lovely time with him in Dubai! Yesterday we went to the historical district and had an amaaazing middle eastern meal. I'm really happy that he is moving back to San Francisco soon, possibly as early as July!!

The flight went well. The immigration official upon my departure from the UAE left his phone number in my passport. How unprofessional is that?? But pretty funny, nonetheless. I arrived here and realized that its a good 10 degrees Celsius cooler here than in the UAE. I'd been bracing myself for India to be horribly hot, and its definitely warm, but its relatively tolerable!

My birthday is on Saturday and Im going with a group of other volunteers to see the Taj Mahal! I think that sounds like a wonderful birthday plan. And the other volunteers seem really nice, so I dont think I'll be too, too lonely. Of course, I will miss you all terribly anyway.

I couldnt upload my photos in Dubai because the UAE has censored internet and you cant access sites like Flickr! Sorry. I'll get around to it eventually, I'm sure...